Why Used Guitars Are Worth the Hunt
Some of the best guitars I’ve ever played were bought used. A 1998 Gibson Les Paul Standard with a faded cherry sunburst that had already been broken in by fifteen years of gigging. A beat-up Fender American Standard Stratocaster with a neck so worn-in it felt like shaking hands with an old friend. Used guitars have character, history, and — most importantly — a price tag that doesn’t make your wallet cry.
But for every great deal, there’s a guitar with a cracked headstock hiding under a fresh coat of paint, a truss rod that’s maxed out, or frets so worn down you’d swear someone played a million bends on them. The used market rewards the prepared buyer and punishes the careless one. So let’s make sure you’re prepared. For more, see our Electric Guitar Buying Guide. For more, see our How to Read Guitar Reviews. For more, see our How to Choose Your First Guitar.
Set Your Budget and Know What You’re Actually Looking For
Before you start scrolling Reverb at midnight, get specific. “I want a used electric guitar” is not a plan. “I want a used Telecaster-style guitar with single-coil pickups, a C-shaped neck profile, and a budget of $400–$600” is a plan. The more specific you are, the harder it is to get distracted by a flashy guitar that checks zero of your actual boxes.
Think about the music you play. If you’re chasing that glassy, twangy tone — think Brad Paisley or Danny Gatton — a used Fender Telecaster or a G&L ASAT is your lane. If you want thick, singing lead tone like Slash or Jimmy Page, you’re shopping for a Les Paul or an SG. Know your target before you go hunting.
Also factor in a buffer for setup costs. Even a great used guitar might need a fret polish, a new set of strings, and a proper setup from a tech. Budget $50–$80 for that right out of the gate and you won’t be surprised.
The Physical Inspection: What to Check Before Anything Else
Whether you’re buying in person or from an online listing, these are the non-negotiables. Skip any of these and you’re gambling.
The Headstock and Neck Joint
The headstock is the most vulnerable part of any guitar. It takes falls, bumps, and the occasional catastrophic drop. Run your fingers around the entire headstock — both front and back — and look for any cracks, repaired breaks, or discoloration in the finish that might indicate a previous repair. A repaired headstock isn’t automatically a dealbreaker, but it needs to be disclosed and it needs to be priced accordingly.
On a bolt-on neck like a Stratocaster or Telecaster, grab the body with one hand and the neck with the other and give it a gentle but firm wiggle. There should be zero movement. Any play in that joint means the neck pocket is worn or the screws have been stripped — both fixable, but both need to be factored into your offer.
On set-neck guitars like a Les Paul, look at the heel of the neck where it meets the body. Gaps, lifted finish, or visible glue lines are red flags that the neck has been reset or is working its way loose.
The Truss Rod
This one matters more than people realize. The truss rod is what keeps your neck straight, and a truss rod that’s been maxed out — cranked all the way to its limit — leaves you with no way to adjust the relief if the neck ever moves. Ask the seller if they know the truss rod’s condition. Better yet, bring a capo and a feeler gauge if you’re buying in person.
Capo the first fret, hold down the last fret, and check the gap at the seventh or eighth fret. You want a small amount of relief — roughly the thickness of a business card to a credit card depending on your preference. A completely flat or back-bowed neck with no adjustment left is a guitar you want to walk away from unless the price reflects a potential neck replacement.
Fret Wear
Look down the fretboard from the headstock end like you’re sighting down a rifle. You’re checking for level frets and for wear. Fret wear shows up as flat spots or divots, usually most pronounced under the first through fifth frets on the low strings — the spots where most players spend most of their time. Some wear is totally normal and expected on a used guitar. Heavy wear that’s created sharp fret ends or significant divots will require a fret level or even a refret, which can run $150–$400 depending on the shop.
Don’t be afraid to ask to play the guitar before buying. If notes are buzzing in specific spots and a simple action adjustment doesn’t fix it, uneven frets are likely the culprit.
The Nut
The nut is a small but critical piece. Look for cracks, chips, or slots that have been filed too deep. When you tune the guitar up and play open chords, if the open strings are buzzing or the guitar doesn’t intonate well in first position, the nut may be the problem. A quality replacement nut — bone is the gold standard — costs $20–$40 in materials and an hour of labor. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s a negotiating point.
Electronics and Hardware
Plug the guitar in. Play every pickup position. Turn the volume and tone knobs slowly from zero to ten — any crackling or scratchy sound means dirty or failing potentiometers. That’s usually a $10–$20 fix if you can solder, more if you can’t. Check the output jack for crackle or intermittent signal. Work the toggle switch or selector into every position and back.
On humbucker-equipped guitars, tap on each pickup with your finger while the guitar is plugged in — you should hear a thump through the amp. Dead pickups are either a wiring issue or a failed pickup. A replacement set of Seymour Duncan ’59s or Gibson Burstbuckers runs $150–$250, which is real money if you didn’t account for it.
Buying Online vs. In Person
In-person buying is always preferable. You can inspect the guitar yourself, plug it in, feel the neck, and trust your own hands and ears. If you’re buying locally — Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, a local shop — take full advantage of that access. Bring a small flashlight to look inside the body cavities and under the pickguard. Bring a tuner. Take your time.
Online buying from platforms like Reverb or eBay can be great, but the photos have to do all the heavy lifting. Here’s how to protect yourself:
- Ask for more photos. Request shots of the headstock front and back, the neck joint, every fret position, inside the control cavity, and the serial number. A legitimate seller will send them without hesitation.
- Read the description carefully. Look for weasel words like “plays great with some setup needed” or “small crack that doesn’t affect playability.” Those phrases are doing a lot of work.
- Check the seller’s feedback history. A seller with 200 positive transactions on Reverb is a very different risk than someone with zero history.
- Use a payment method with buyer protection. PayPal Goods & Services and credit cards both offer dispute resolution. Never send cash, a wire transfer, or Zelle to a stranger for an instrument.
- Factor in return shipping. On Reverb, many sellers offer returns. Know the policy before you buy.
How to Spot a Fake or Misrepresented Guitar
Counterfeits exist, particularly for high-value brands like Gibson and Fender. A fake Gibson Les Paul is not going to play, sound, or hold value like the real thing, no matter how good the photos look. Here’s how to verify authenticity:
- Check the serial number. Gibson and Fender both have serial number lookup tools and resources. Cross-reference the serial number with the stated year and model. If something doesn’t line up, ask why.
- Look at the headstock logo. The font, spacing, and finish of the logo on a genuine Gibson or Fender is distinctive. Fakes often get it slightly wrong — the wrong font weight, a logo that’s slightly too large, or silk-screening that looks off.
- Check the hardware and electronics. Genuine USA-made Gibsons use Grover or Kluson-style tuners and specific pot values (500k for humbuckers, 250k for single coils). Fakes often have generic hardware that doesn’t match the spec sheet.
- Consult forums. The Les Paul Forum, Strat-Talk, and The Gear Page have communities of deeply knowledgeable players who have seen every variant and every fake. Post the photos before you buy.
Negotiating the Price
Every flaw you document during your inspection is a negotiating chip. Don’t be rude about it, but be direct. “I noticed the frets are pretty worn and it’s going to need a refret — I’m thinking $X based on that.” Most sellers selling privately expect some negotiation. Shops less so, but even they often have room, especially on guitars that have been sitting.
Check completed sales on Reverb before you negotiate — not asking prices, but what the guitar actually sold for. That’s the real market. If someone is asking $800 for a guitar that consistently sells for $600 in the same condition, you have your leverage.
The Final Gut Check
After all the inspection, all the research, all the negotiation — play the guitar. Play it sitting down and standing up. Play the styles of music you actually play. A guitar that makes you feel like you can’t stop playing is telling you something real. A guitar that feels awkward, sounds dull, or doesn’t inspire you to pick it back up is also telling you something real.
The best used guitar deals aren’t just about price. They’re about finding an instrument that connects with you and getting it at a fair value. When those two things align — when you pick it up and immediately start noodling through a riff you love, when the neck feels right in your hand and the tone makes you grin — that’s when you know. Trust that feeling, do your due diligence, and you’ll end up with a guitar you’ll play for years.
The used market is full of incredible instruments waiting for someone who knows what to look for. Now you do.
Frequently Asked Questions
What should I look for when buying a used guitar?
Check the neck for warping, cracks, or a twisted profile. Inspect frets for excessive wear and ensure the truss rod still adjusts. Look for hidden cracks near the headstock, bridge, and heel joint. Play every fret on every string to catch buzzing, dead notes, or intonation problems before buying.
How do I know if a used guitar is priced fairly?
Search completed eBay listings to see what the same model actually sold for recently. Also check Reverb’s price guide and local Facebook Marketplace listings. Condition matters significantly — a heavily worn guitar should cost 30–50% less than a clean example. Factor in any setup or repair costs you’ll need.
Is it safe to buy a used guitar online without playing it first?
It’s risky but manageable if you take precautions. Ask the seller for detailed photos of the neck, frets, headstock, and body. Request a return policy, and buy through Reverb or eBay for buyer protection. Avoid Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for high-value guitars unless you can inspect them in person.
What are red flags to avoid when buying a used guitar?
Watch out for cracks near the headstock or bridge, a warped or twisted neck, heavily worn-down frets, mismatched serial numbers, and repaired breaks that weren’t disclosed. Sellers who refuse detailed photos, won’t answer specific questions, or pressure you to decide quickly are also major warning signs.
Should I get a used guitar set up after buying it?
Almost always yes. Even a good used guitar often needs a fresh setup — adjusting action, intonation, and truss rod relief — especially if it sat unplayed. Budget $40–$75 for a professional setup. A properly set up guitar plays dramatically better and helps you accurately judge whether it was a smart purchase.